How to Haul a Dirt Bike Without Straps (Truck, Trailer or Van)

Ratchet straps have been the default way to haul a dirt bike for decades. They also slip, loosen on rough roads, fray, and pull your front end down into the suspension for the whole drive. If you have ever pulled into the track to find a strap hanging loose, or a bike leaning on the bed rail, you already know why riders look for a better way.

This guide covers how to haul a dirt bike without straps, what your options are, and how to set up a truck, trailer or van so the bike stays put without compressing the forks.

Why riders are moving away from ratchet straps

The usual strap method works like this: hook the straps to the handlebars or lower triple clamp, anchor them to the floor, and crank them down until the bike stands on its own. The trouble is in the cranking.

• Constant fork compression. To keep tension, most riders pull the front suspension down. That load stays on the fork seals for the whole trip. We cover this in more detail in Why is it important to limit compression of front forks?
• Straps loosen. Bumps, vibration and suspension movement can let a strap lose tension or work its hook free.
• Wear and tear. Webbing gets sun, mud and abrasion damage over time, and hooks can scratch bars, clamps and plastics.
• Setup time. Getting four straps even, with the bike upright, takes a while, and often a second person.

None of that means straps can't work. It means there are now simpler options.

Your options for hauling a dirt bike without straps

1. Wheel chocks on their own

A front wheel chock holds the front tire and keeps the bike upright while you load. On its own, though, a chock usually doesn't stop the bike moving when the vehicle brakes, turns or hits a bump. Most chock setups still use straps for the actual securing. A chock is a good loading aid, like our E-Track Wheel Chock, but it isn't a strapless system by itself.

2. Rigid strapless tie-downs (the Moto Cinch approach)

A rigid strapless tie-down holds the bike to anchor track in the floor of your truck, trailer or van with a solid connection, so there's no webbing to stretch or loosen. Moto Cinch units are built for this job and are ATS lab tested to 1,500 lbs per unit.

Because a rigid unit doesn't need constant downward tension, you don't have to crush the forks to get the bike stable. That's the main advantage over straps for anyone who cares about their suspension.

For dirt bikes, the main choices are:

• Moto Cinch MX (L-Track) for vehicles with L-Track (airline track).
• Moto Cinch MX (E-Track) for trailers and vans with E-Track.
• Moto Cinch Mini MX (L-Track) and Mini MX (E-Track) for smaller and vintage bikes.
• ECO Cinch MX (L-Track) and ECO Cinch MX (E-Track), which fit all bike sizes.

Other brands, including Bike Binders and others, make strapless or semi-strapless products too. When you compare them, check how each one attaches, what track it needs, and what strength testing the maker publishes.

How to set up your vehicle for strapless hauling

Step 1: Pick your track type

Strapless systems anchor to track mounted in the floor:

• L-Track (airline track): low-profile, common in truck beds, vans and enclosed trailers. Our Angled Aluminum L-Track is one option.
• E-Track: common in cargo trailers and vans. Rails like the 24" E-Track rail and 6" E-Track rails work for shorter runs.

If your trailer already has E-Track, go with E-Track models. If you're starting from scratch, many riders pick L-Track for the lower profile.

Step 2: Mount the track properly

The tie-down can only be as secure as the track and the floor under it. Use proper backing plates and hardware rather than wood screws alone. We sell a 2" L-Track Hardware Kit with single-hole backing plates and a 2.5" Heavy Hardware Kit for this. If you just need one fixed point, a Single Point Anchor works well.

Lay the track out with the bike in place first. Leave room to walk around it, and if you're hauling more than one bike, check that the handlebars clear each other.

Step 3: Load the bike

Roll or ride the bike in and line it up over the track. A wheel chock helps keep it upright while you work. Put the bike in gear if it's practical.

Step 4: Attach the tie-downs

Attach the units to the bike and lock them into the track following your owner's manual. The goal is a solid hold, not a compressed front end. Once both sides are set, push the bike side to side. It should feel like part of the vehicle.

Step 5: Check before you drive, and again at your first stop

Do a quick walk-around before you leave and look again at your first stop, the same as you would with any load. With no webbing to stretch, there's a lot less to adjust.

Truck, trailer or van: what changes?

• Pickup truck: bed space is tight, so low-profile L-Track is popular. Plan for the tailgate and wheel wells. Our guide on how much a dirt bike weighs helps with checking your loading equipment.
• Open or enclosed trailer: you get more room, and often existing E-Track. See how to tie down a motorcycle in a trailer without damaging your forks.
• Van: a strapless setup keeps the floor clear when the bike's not in, since you're left with flush track and no loose straps.

Common mistakes to avoid

1. Weak track mounting. A strong tie-down on a poorly fixed track is still a weak point.
2. Using a chock as the only restraint. Chocks help with loading. They don't secure the bike for the road.
3. Squeezing the forks anyway. If you're used to straps, it's tempting to crank down. A rigid system doesn't need that.
4. Skipping the stop check. Every load deserves a look after the first few miles.

The bottom line

Hauling a dirt bike without straps means fewer loose ends, faster loading, and no long drive with the forks pulled down. Start by choosing your track type, mount it properly, and pick the tie-down that fits your bike.

Ready to ditch the straps? Shop the Moto Cinch MX, ATS lab tested to 1,500 lbs per unit, or check out the E-Track version if your trailer already has E-Track.